Las Vegas and Beyond – Death Valley Post 1

Death Valley

We landed in Vegas, caught a shuttle to the car rental building, picked up our (ugh) Hyundi SUV and headed west towards Furnace Creek, Death Valley.

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The landscape quickly changed as we gradually dipped below sea level. The closer we got to Death Valley, the more mesmerizing the scenery. We were in a constant state of awe…

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When we hit Badwater Basin, we got out of the car to check out the salt flats. We were immediately hit with the whoosh of HOT air. Badwater Basin is 282 ft / 85.5 m below sea level.

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The salt flats consist of a thin white crust over mud making it squishy to walk on. One tour bus there had a bucket of water outside the door for the passengers to wash their footwear before boarding.

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We stayed at Furnace Creek Ranch – a basic (motel-like) accommodation in the middle of nowhere.

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The complex had a couple of eateries, a gift shop/convenience store, a small Borax museum, and a pool.

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The temperature while we were in Death Valley was HOT! On Saturday, it was 44.5°C at 5 PM. But, that didn’t stop us from exploring some of the surrounding area.

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After a good night’s sleep, we stopped by the Visitor’s Centre and then drove to Scottys Castle. Such an interesting story…

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The short version – Scotty (a conman, swindler, and storyteller) began to look for investors in his gold mine in Death Valley after he was fired from the Wild Bill Show.

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One of the investors, Albert Johnson, eventually doubted the legitimacy of the gold mine and travelled from his home in Chicago to Death Valley to see the mine for himself. He discovered Scotty’s gold mine was non-existent and that Scotty was a fabulous “story teller”.

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Albert loved the adventures that Scotty offered and Albert’s health greatly improved in the desert climate. They became life-long friends. Albert and his wife, Bessie, built their winter home (castle) in Death Valley “over Scotty’s gold mine”.

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The home built in the middle of the desert between 1922-31 was beyond its time with technology – running water / plumbing – hydro generation with Pelton water wheel and diesel backup – a solar water heater.

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The story Scotty started lived on. Even though he never lived in the Johnson’s home, the story people were led to believe was that it was Scotty’s and it was built over his gold mine. The Johnsons let Scotty have his fun and continue to spin tales. They loved the laughter he brought them.

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Scotty outlived both the Johnsons, passing away in 1954. He is buried on the site. The site is now owned by the National Parks Association.

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On the way back from Scottys Castle, we stopped at Ubehebe Crater. It is over 2000 years old, ½ mile across, and 500 ft deep.

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Not a bad picture for standing at the top of the crater with a 50 MPH tailwind !

DSC_0338After a late lunch/early dinner at the saloon in Stovepipe Wells, we visited Mesquite Sand Dunes. The sand was BURNING hot!

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The depth of the sand at its crest is over 130 ft. The area was used in the Star Wars sand dune scenes.

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After a long day in the heat, we decided to take a dip in the spring water fed pool in the complex – water was really warm….

Before leaving Death Valley on Sunday (temperature predicted to reach 47°C), we did a drive along Artists Drive.

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A stunning array of colours awaits the drive through.

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A deep canyon in the Black Mountains caused by volcanic action and the subsequent chemical reactions produce a multitude of colours along the way.

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Part way through the drive, a slight detour leads to Artist’s Palette. The colours are even more intense and contrasting.

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Death Valley was an amazing first stop on our Vegas and Beyond Adventure – it was HOT, it was desolate, it was surreal, it was absolutely beautiful!

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Next Stop Boulder City and The Hoover Dam !

 

 

 

 

 

Big Island Adventure Week 4, Final Post

Week 4

Wow, how the time has flown by…final week…

If you read our Galapagos blog, you would know that we snorkeled for the first time there and loved it. That said, 3 weeks in, and we hadn’t been in the water yet, so it was time to get wet…(yes, I love snorkeling, but that initial getting wet, I need to work up to). We went a couple of times to a shallow lagoon next to our condo.

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Then on Tuesday, Aline and Dave picked us up for a deep water snorkel excursion to Kealakekua Bay. This is where Captain James Cook came ashore on the Hawaiian Islands and later where he was killed.

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The waters are calm and the views are amazing. I was in awe the moment I jumped in and put my face in the water.

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The hour passed quickly, and then it was time to board the boat for our trip back.

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On our way back we saw Spinner dolphins,

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whales,

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lava tubes – this one looks like an evil face used by the ancients for sacrifices!

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and locals jumping off a cliff (notably named, End of the World).

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Video

Great fun with our new friends…

On Thursday, Aline and Dave picked us up for another day of adventure. We went to Kaloko-Honokohau National Park to hike some of the trails. The area was home to ancient Hawaiians. We spotted a lot of parrots on the trail, their squawking almost sounded like they were laughing at us !

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We saw petroglyphs along our walk.

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Near the shore, a map lets you imagine what the village would have once looked like. The lava rock fish traps are still intact.

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Next stop was the beautifully landscaped Mauka Meadows.

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A long and winding trail leads you down through flower gardens, fruit gardens, and coffee plants (and big spiders).

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The trail ends at a coffee tasting venue with an infinity pool with a lookout of the ocean below.

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The resident chicken happily enjoys when visitors share their banana with him. Aline was happy to oblige.

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While in the Kona coffee belt region, we made another stop to Greenwell Farms.  This coffee farm has been around since 1850.

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We did a tour around the grounds. The company provides custom milling, roasting and packaging for their coffee beans and other the coffee farms on the Big Island. The coffee trees in the picture are about 115 years old, most trees are in production for about 20 years.

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The farm has many fruit trees avocado, mango, citrus, banana, that are not harvested commercially, but provide free food for the workers ! After the tour, over half a dozen different coffees were offered for tasting.

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Dinner was at Ocean’s for Taco Thursday. Aline and Dave treated. Todd had shrimp tacos and a blackened fish taco (best he’s had on the Island).

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I went for a steak taco and Kalua pork taco – would highly recommend the pork…

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As nightfall came, we were treated to great views of the full moon from our lanai.

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Our final full day started with breakfast out – Kalua Pork Eggs Benedict on homemade bread with herbed potatoes – excellent flavour (and very filling). And then some last minute shopping…

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We finished the day, meeting up with Aline and Dave for drinks and dinner at Bongo Bens. This has been our regular “haunt” this vacation. It is the “Cheers” of Kona – “where everyone knows your name”. The regulars (residents) mix with the vacationers on the stools around the bar and stories are exchanged and laughs are shared. But, the reason why this venue is so well frequented is Naia. She puts the “Happy” in Happy Hour with her friendly, efficient service. Preparing drinks for those at the bar and the rest of Bongo’s, she is a powerhouse and cares about her customers. We learned a lot about this born and bred Big Island resident over the past four weeks and we are going to miss her friendly greetings and amazing smile – which is one of the reasons we are planning a return trip sooner, rather than later…

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The Big Island Hawaii Post 3

Week 3

Sunday night, we met up once again with our new friends from BC – Aline and Dave. It was Aline’s birthday (55th – that makes me the youngest in our foursome…lol), so we joined them for a celebratory dinner at Quinn’s By the Sea.

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I even had fish! – fish and chips, that is…. The fish was mild, but a little dense, and batter was tasty, so there…had fish, now back to good ole Kahlua Pork.

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Wednesday was our “Take-2” with Volcano Van. The tour guide came with a rental because his van was still in the shop. This time we drove north. We stopped along the road to check out a lava tube.

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We stopped at Laupahoehoe Park where the ocean shows its beauty and raw power as the waves crash against the numerous leaf-shaped lava rocks that border the shore. (Laupahoehoe means leaf lava).

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The beauty of the area is marked by tragedy. A school house once stood here, but on April 1, 1946, a tsunami destroyed the building and killed 23 children and 4 teachers. It is very emotional reading the names of the deceased – whole families of children gone….

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The Big Island has all but two of the world’s climate zones. As we drove northeast, the arid, brown land dotted with volcanic rock turned green – houses with lawns, lush flora along the roadside, and the occasional waterfall.

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We made a pit-stop in Honomu where we picked up Hilo coffee beans to take home from the café. Then we wandered over to Mr. Ed’s Bakery – what a treat! Freshly made cookies (including our favourite, Macadamia Nut cookies), and jams fill the store. We have never seen so many types of (all natural and for the most part using local ingredients) jams, jellies, and chutneys in one place – and all are available to sample! Todd bought the Tangerine Torture – a tangerine jam with jalapeno and ghost peppers.

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Kolekole Park, under one towering train bridge is an oasis of a once sugar cane run to the sea that invites visitors.

DSC_9924The area is a favourite of local (experienced) surfers.

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Locals also come to fish,

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or just to enjoy the scenery…

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Next, we stopped at Akaka Falls State. We hiked a paved path, slightly uphill, through a lush rainforest filled with palms, ferns, bamboo, and flowering bushes.

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The first waterfall we came to was the 100 ft. Kahuna Falls.

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As the path continues, the 442 ft. Akaka Falls comes into view as the water drops into the gorge below. The Oopu alamoo is an endemic Hawaiian species of goby fish that spawns in stream above the waterfall. When spawning season comes around they climb to the top using a suction cup just below their head ! The fish lives in the sea while maturing and dies after spawning.

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Although, we didn’t see much of Hilo, we did stop at Liliuokalani Park and Gardens for a scenic lunch. The park consists of 30 acres of Japanese gardens.

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The highlight of the day was exploring sections of Volcano National Park. We began at a lookout point towards the Halema’uma’u Crater vent.

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Next we walked along the path to the steam vents. Ground water seeps down to the hot volcanic rocks in this area and returns to the surface as steam.

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We drove along Chain of Craters Road to its end – where lava literally takes over the road from a 1959 eruption.

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The beauty of lava….

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We completed our tour back at the lookout to Halema’uma’u Crater vent in the evening when the glow can be seen.

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Friday, we tagged along with our friends, Aline and Dave, to Pololū Valley for a hike. You literally drive to the end of the road (on Hwy. 270) and when you can’t go any farther, you’re there.

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The trail down to the beach (and back up) is rugged and steep – a good workout…

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At the bottom of the trail, a picturesque beach awaits.

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After the somewhat strenuous hike, we drove to the Big Island Brewhaus in Waimea for some beverages and lunch.

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The Big Island Brewhaus began as a restaurant in 2008 and in 2011 the brewery was added.

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We are having a fantastic time and can’t believe we only have one week left…