The Big Island Post 1

This is the third year in a row we’ve been to the Big Island; it has become a second home here in Kona. We meet up with our friends from B.C., Aline and Dave, and we reconnect with local friends.

Two years ago, we did a tour that ended with a visit to Volcano National Park. This year we decided to go ourselves, spend the night (Volcano House Hotel), and explore at our own pace going to places we had not been. We arrived at the park just before noon and it was already packed with people (tons of tour vans and busses). Our first stop after the Visitor’s Centre was the steam vents which surround the volcano crater.

They are much more active than when we saw them back in 2005 or even two year ago.

Next, we went to the Jaggar Museum, where we had a great view of the Kilauea Caldera.

We stopped here as part of our cruise excursion in 2005 and could walk right up to the crater’s edge. It became active again in 2008 and the road has been closed since. According to one of the rangers at the museum, the area we once stood has collapsed into the crater.

We returned here at night and were treated to a bit of a show.

As the lava sputtered up, lots of oohs and aahs came from the crowd.

Here is a time lapse video Todd made from a group of shots he took.

Because of Todd’s ankle, we didn’t do any hiking; that will have to wait for a return visit. We drove along Crater Rim Drive where markers detailed the various years that lava had flowed over the area.

There are two types of lava and they are easily distinguishable. The smoother, dense lava is called Pahoehoe. It looks like gentle waves. The other lava, A’a, is porous and jagged and appears as individual rocks.

As we continued towards sea level, descending 1128 m, the temperature rose 11°C. In the distance, we could see this huge billowing of smoke. Smoke? No, it was steam!

We knew to get anywhere close to the lava flowing into the ocean, you had to hike in about 8 km…and that wasn’t happening. So, we were quite satisfied to see the forces of nature at work from a distance.

Because we spent the night at the hotel in the park, we were able beat the crowds the next morning. We returned to the Jaggar Museum outlook for a clearer daytime view of Kilauea Caldera.

We did a return drive towards the ocean and the end of Chain of Craters Road, taking pictures along the way.

But the main attraction of course is the steam plume. When hot lava touches the ocean, it evaporates water, forming an impressive steam plume, and heats the surface water to temperatures capable of causing third-degree burns.

Our final stop was at the Thurston Lava Tube. We were the only ones there! Amazing! The rainforest area around the tube was totally serene…only the birds could be heard. (Click play below)

The ferns growing around the lava tube have huge (as big as your head)  fiddleheads starting!

The Thurston Lava Tube is estimated to be about 500 years old.

Lava caves like this are formed during lava flows. The outer crust begins to harden while the inner lava continues to flow. Once the flow stops, the tunnel formation remains.

Volcano National Park is truly unique. We witnessed the past and present impact Pele has on the Island. It is amazing – the beauty in some of the plants that thrive in the lava!

While this is our 3rd visit to Big Island, it is the first time we have rented a car; and that turned out to be a good plan because of Todd’s swollen and sore ankle. We are doing a lot of driving and seeing the sites. On one of our drives, we headed to Waimea and stopped for lunch… at a Korean restaurant (Yong’s Kalbi). I had the Chicken Katsu and sides including pickled daikon that was very good. (Going to get Todd to make some pickled daikon back home.)

Todd had Mandoo Noodle Soup and sides.

After lunch, we went to Parker Ranch. Parker Ranch was founded in 1847 by John Palmer Parker, from Massachusetts. He married the granddaughter of King Kamehameha I, and they purchased two acres of land (for $10). Rows of eucalyptus trees create a tunnel along the entry way and horses graze in the fields.

Today, the ranch is the 5th largest independently owned ranch in the United States at 130,000 acres.

The property allows visitors a look into the past. We toured Mana Hale (House of the Spirit). The original house was built in the early 1800s by John Parker. Later, his great-great-great grandson, Richard Smart, had the home disassembled and reconstructed where it sits now.

The house, made entirely of koa wood, is quite impressive.

The rooms are filled with pictures, documents, and household items from the early era of the ranch.

The second floor, shows what the bedrooms would have looked like.

The other house available for visitors to tour is Puuopelu. It was the home of the Ranch’s sixth-generation and final heir from 1960 to 1992. The Parker Ranch property was left as a beneficial trust when he died.

There is also a museum on the grounds with old carriages and tools on display.

On another drive, we went south to Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park.

This is the site where Hawaiians met Westerners when Captain Cook arrived in 1779.

On the large rock platform, various ceremonial structures once stood. Over the years, it has had to be rebuilt due to damage from high surf and tsunamis. It remains a sacred area.

While on the Island, our friend Doug, who we met here 3 years ago celebrated his 40th birthday. We met him and some of his other friends at Bongos.

Then we made our way upstairs to play pool and have some beverages and snacks.

Doug’s dad also came by.

The guys enjoyed playing each other, and pairing up to play others wanting to play. We had lots of fun celebrating with Doug and his friends on his birthday.

Todd was the only one willing to have a shot of Patron tequila with Doug to end the night!

We got to experience another full moon on this vacation (first one was in Poipu). The sky was clear and made a great background for the brilliant moon.

We continue to take sunset pictures.

Just when you think, okay we have enough sunset pictures, another stunning sunset comes….and we have to take more pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hawaiian Adventure Kauai Final Post

We have been out of bed for almost every sunrise. A lot of the days start out a bit cloudy, but then the sun breaks through.

Our condo is about 2.5 km from Spouting Horn blowhole. A guardrail blocks the area from climbers and a sign warns of the danger.

Funny thing is…when we were in Maui, the blowhole (Nakalele), was a lot more fierce (and impressive), and you could climb down the rocky hill to get as close as you wanted. Some people got stupidly close. Kauai seems to be a lot more cautious than Maui.

On one of our road trips, we headed west to Waimea Canyon, known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. The canyon is about 16 km long and 1100 m deep.

The colours are stunning.

To give you a scale for how big the canyon is, see if you can find the two helicopters in this shot Todd took looking down into it!

Elevation here is approximately 1035 m. Todd did great, walking up to the viewpoint, with his “boot” on. He overheard some woman say to her husband “I don’t know how he does it…”

We continued the drive up to an elevation of just over 1200 m to the Kalalau Lookout.

A fine rain began as we looked at the Kalalau Valley and the Na Pali Coast.

We returned to Waimea (the town) another day for their 40th Anniversary Festival. As you enter the town, a monument of Captain James Cook stands in the small park a few miles from where he first landed in the Hawaiian Islands.

The festival is a weeklong celebration including sporting events, craft and food sales, and contests.

We arrived just in time for the ice cream eating contest.

Also on the western side of the Island is Salt Pond Beach, named for the Hawaiian sea salt produced in the salt flats near the beach. No salt was being extracted today as the season is in the drier summer. Interestingly, the salt flat beds are divided and owned by 17 families. The rights to extract the salts has been handed down generation to generation and no one else is allowed to extract the salt.

The weather on Kauai has definitely been cooler and windier than our times on the other Hawaiian Islands (about 5°C cooler than Kona on the BI). That said, we have had good weather with hardly any rain where we are staying….sure beats winter back home…

We have been here almost 3 weeks, and I finally got to eat some Kalua pork – bought at the Fish Market in Koala. After doing some research, who would have guessed the recommended place to get the pork would be at a fish shop? Todd has enjoyed their Korean Ahi Poke a few times.

We finally got to go on our Na Pali sunset cruise. We were originally booked for Valentine’s Day, but the company (Holo Holo Charters) cancelled due to extremely high winds. Two other times we chose to cancel as the choice was given knowing it would be rough waters.

The Na Pali coast is stunning – the ridges are so severely eroded, that they appear to stand upright and look like a curtain with vertical folds.

Cliffs here exceed 1200 m above sea level.

 

The pounding of the Hawaiian surf against the land (up to 12 m in the winter) create sea arches and sea caves.

Apparently the first Polynesian people who landed in Hawaii (300 AD to 800 AD) lived in this area. In the 1860s, the Kalalau Valley was the area people afflicted with leprosy were sent. By the early 1900s, most Hawaiians moved out of the area to safer, less remote areas of Kauai.

As a bonus, we were even entertained as a mama whale was teaching her calf how to breach.

We were so glad we waited for calmer waters (actually the swells were still pretty high, so can’t imagine what it would have been like on the tours we didn’t go on).

We did one last road trip north…towards (literally) the end of the road. On our way, we stopped at Haena Beach. A few fearless souls braved the waters, but most just sat on the sandy beach enjoying the weather.

 

Across the road is Maniniholo Dry Cave.

The cave goes back about 45 m. Legend has it that the cave used to be part of a tunnel to Waimea Canyon until it was deliberately collapsed during a conflict.

After reaching the end of the road, we turned around to head back. The area was packed and there was no parking. We did see one more cave, so I jumped out and got pictures.

We stopped in Hanalei for lunch and to take a look at the church that has caught our eye each time we have passed it. Waioli Huiia Church was founded in 1834 and the stained-glass windows are magnificent.

The last few nights have seen some bigger waves, so surfers are out taking advantage of the ocean conditions outside our condo.

Every night hundreds of parakeet birds flock to our area to sleep in the trees. Some people come here just to photograph them. They are an invasive species that were originally brought to a B&B for a novelty…until they escaped and reproduced. They are responsible for destroying a number of farmers’ crops, and the state is looking at how to get rid of them.

Our last day on Kauai was a wet one – torrential downpours. We went for a drive west and ended up at Big Island Brewing Company for a late lunch. The place was packed because all the boating tours (companies located across the street) were cancelled. Back at the condo, the amount of rain was evident as an additional pond formed in the park across the street.

Although cloudy and rainy our last day, most evenings end with a beautiful sunset. Dozens of people gather each evening to view the sunset…each one different, each one beautiful.

Now onto Kona on the Big Island….to meet up with Aline & Dave and some local friends.